Alright, I've been putting this off. What does it mean to "read" a cookbook? Once I've read it, then what? It seems like poor form to write something masquerading as a review without trying some recipes. (The completion gamer in me rather insists that I should try
all the recipes, but that is really impractical) I would feel the same about book claiming to teach any skill, and really, that's what a cookbook is. It's a book that teaches combination and techniques of preparing food from base ingredients. It is one of the most common types of how-to manuals.
So, how does one evaluate a how-to manual? I guess the basic criteria is does it teach the skill and how easy is it to read. That's probably over simplistic, but it's the best I have to go with for now.

In the case of
Kitchen Matrix, it is a little difficult to figure out the intent here. Bittman has been playing with ways of writing recipes over several of his most recent books. The usual method is a list of ingredients annotated with preparation instructions. Follow that is a step by step procedure for making the dish. Most cookbooks are written in this way. Bittman does write some of the recipes out this way but he also experiments with basic instructions followed by charts of variations. Some whole recipes are really set up like infographics. While he's been playing with these methods for some time, it seems like there is a much higher percentage in this volume.
I think the reason for this non-traditional format comes down to authorial intent. Most cookbooks aim to teaching cooking on some level.
Kitchen Matrix assumes that the reader has the basics down.
Kitchen Matrix seems to be aimed at teaching improvisation and spontaneity in cooking, which is a pretty difficult thing to teach.
It's a noble goal. I know too many people who collapse and order a pizza when they run into minor hiccoughs in executing the recipe. Most things can be dealt with if a cook is inventive.
So, does
Kitchen Matrix teach improvisation and spontaneity in the kitchen. Maybe. It certainly does a good job showing how different prep methods change the way a single ingredient tastes, or given a basic recipe, how different ingredients behave. However the format is also a little confusing at times and runs the risk of being overwhelming to newer cooks.
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